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  • Good Bye Capture One Pro 23?

    Good Bye Capture One Pro 23?

    On 6 Dec 2022, Capture One announced a shocking change to its perpetual license and a new “Loyalty Program” to replace the existing upgrading pricing. The effective date is 14 Feb 2023 (originally scheduled on 1 Feb 2023). I pre-ordered the COP v23 in Oct 2022 and have to decide by 30 Sep 2023 whether to join the new “Loyalty Program” or leave Capture One (Yes, leave).

    After reading numerous Capture One articles about the new changes and thousands of comments, I decided to list out the changes to determine whether the new “Loyalty Program” is a better or worse deal. It always helps me to clear my mind and make a more subjective decision. I hope this post will help some of you to sort out the confusion too.

    What’s Going On?

    Let’s start with a short story. A car company has two groups of customers, the renters and the buyers. The renters pay monthly to use the car and enjoy unlimited free maintenance and component upgrades as long they stay in the rental. The buyers make a one-off payment to own a car and enjoy

    1. 1-year of free maintenance;
    2. 1-year of free component upgrades;
    3. eligible to trade-in discount for a new car model.

    One day, the company announced changes to its buying and rental scheme after the year-end sales,

    1. no more new car models;
    2. all the cars purchased after X date will have an uncertain maintenance period until a new component model is available. How frequently a new component model is announced? Nobody knows;
    3. the monthly rental becomes an installment payment. the customer will get a free car after they pay for X years;
    4. the customer can settle the installment earlier and choose to pay a corresponding discounted lump sum to own the car;
    5. trade-in discount is replaced by the new pricing scheme.

    The renters are happy and appreciate the company’s kindness in making their rentals into an installment plan. The renters will get their car for free after they pay for X years. Happy changes happy customers.

    On the other hand, the existing buyers are upset and frustrated. The new policy voids the majority benefits of their future buying. The new car only entitles an uncertain maintenance period because a new component could be announced anytime after the purchase.

    That’s what’s going on in the recent Capture One changes and the reaction of its customers. There are two items you must figure out, the new pricing scheme (Loyalty Program) and the changes to the new perpetual licenses. Capture One updated the change details multiple times after receiving furious public comments on their site and various forums. Let’s move on to find out more.

    The Marketing Approaches

    A quick glance at the activities timelines as the following:

    DateEvent
    24 Oct 2022Sent emails for pre-order upgrades for COP 23.
    8 Nov 2022Release of COP 23.
    Nov 2022Black Friday sales for COP 23.
    6 Dec 2022Announced the changes in perpetual licenses with the new “loyalty program” will take effect from 1 Feb 2023, and promised to disclose the details about the “loyalty program” in Feb 2023.
    18 Jan 2023Disclosed the ‘loyalty program’ details with many tables and the comparison of costs. Postponed the perpetual license changes from 1 Feb 2023 to 14 Feb 2023.
    COP 23 Changes Timeline

    Firstly, Capture One was pushing for pre-upgrade and Black Friday sales before announcing the changes to the perpetual license. All COP v23 purchased before 14 Feb 2023 technically enjoy the same feature releases (16.x) and bug fixes (16.x.x) until 30 Sep 2023 as in previous years.

    Secondly, Capture One announced a new term, “Loyalty Program” and asked the customers to wait two months for more details. Nobody knows if it is a good or bad change. People start guessing, hoping, and setting optimistic expectations for the new “Loyalty Program”.

    Questionable Changes To The Existing Perpetual License

    The initial Capture One article mentioned,

    Quoted from Capture One Previous Article

    Please note, switching to a subscription will deactivate your existing license key.

    Understandably, the older perpetual license is revoked when someone upgraded from an older to a newer version. Most people are okay with that because they can keep the latest working copy as long as their hardware and OS are compatible with COP.

    Existing perpetual license holders are fed up with the new changes because switching to the new subscription plan will reward them with a voided perpetual license. Capture One felt the heat and updated the page so that existing perpetual license users could keep their working copy when they converted to the new subscription plan.

    Keep Existing COP Perpetual License
    Keep Existing COP Perpetual License

    Confusing Pricing Comparison

    Capture One tried to justify the savings from their subscription plan with several tables and comparisons with the old and new perpetual license costs. Many people commented on the announcement page that Capture One used the original price of USD 299 for an unfair comparison. Some screenshots from Capture One’s comment section are as follows:

    COP Inaccurate Price
    COP Inaccurate Price Comment
    COP Inaccurate Price 2
    COP Inaccurate Price Comment

    For your info, Capture One used to offer a yearly upgrade discount of 30 – 50% off the regular pricing. Again, Capture One updated the table figures and filled the table cells with colors.

    COP Updated Tables
    COP Updated Tables

    It took me a while to figure out what the new table figures want to tell us – The old scheme costs USD 199, while the new “Loyalty Program” costs USD 179 for an annual perpetual license upgrade. Whoever has a yearly upgrade should know the actual pricing (I will break down mine later).

    Smart Marketing Phrasing?

    If you think that’s all about the confusion? No! Capture One brilliantly use the following statement (… means after 5 years you can get it for free)

    COP 5 Years Statement
    COP 5 Years Statement

    What’s wrong with that statement? The fact is you have to pay a full 6-year subscription to get the FREE perpetual license, which is reflected in their latest table (as of 5 Jul 2023).

    COP 6th Year Perpetual License Cost
    COP 6th Year Perpetual License Cost

    Besides, there is another table that illustrates the offer you could obtain a perpetual COP after X years of subscription. However, there is one clause below inferring that “More than 60 months’ means you are in, or have completed sixth year of being a subscriber with us”.

    COP Subscription Clause
    COP Subscription Clause

    How many of you notice and understand that clause correctly? Yes, you can get the free copy of COP after 5 years ONLY IF you continue to subscribe to or complete the 6th year subscription plan.

    I try to transform the table above into a “clearer illustration” as the following table:

    I’ve been a subscriber for…If I want to stop my subscription I can get a copy of Capture One Pro for
    6th Year (61 – 72 months)Free! 100% off
    5th Year (49 – 60 months)80% off
    4th Year (37 – 48 months)60% off
    3rd Year (25 – 36 months)40% off
    2nd Year (13 – 24 months)20% off
    1st Year (0 – 12 months)0% off
    A “Clearer” Illustration

    Yes, such an illustration is terrible for marketing because it directly tells customers that obtaining the free perpetual license costs 6 years of subscription. Does Capture One expect their customers would happily say, “Oops! It’s my bad! I misunderstood the clause.”?

    The New “Loyalty Program”

    In short, it is a new pricing scheme for future perpetual license and subscription plan. On top of it, the subscription plan becomes an “installment” plan (subscribers have the option to convert their subscription into a perpetual COP at a discounted price, or get a free perpetual copy after X years of subscription). The screenshot from Capture One (as of 5 Jul 2023) as below:

    COP Loyalty Program
    COP Loyalty Program

    Receive a free copy after 5 years of subscription sounds good? Something is missing here, “You have to subscribe to or complete the 6th year of the subscription plan to receive the free copy of Capture One Pro.”

    How Many Years To Pay For The “Free” Perpetual License?

    6 years or 72 months, NOT 5 years. Remember (or have you noticed) the clause set by Capture One?

    COP Free Perpetual License Clause
    COP Free Perpetual License Clause

    Would The Loyalty Program Be Changed?

    Capture One reserves the rights to change it anytime, as shown in their terms below. It could be a better or worse change but nobody knows.

    COP Change Of Loyalty Program
    Capture One’s Rights To Change Loyalty Program

    The “Loyalty Program” is lovely for subscribers, who can obtain a perpetual copy of COP at a discounted price/free. However, the new “Loyalty Program” does not introduce any attractive benefit to the perpetual license customers. What upset the existing perpetual license holders is the new “perpetual license”.

    The New “Perpetual License”

    It is clearer to have a direct comparison between the old and new perpetual license as below.

    Old Perpetual License (Before 14 Feb 2023)New Perpetual License (From 14 Feb 2023)
    1 year of new feature releasesNo new feature release
    1 year of bug fixesUncertain bug fix period until the new feature is released
    Uncertain yearly upgrade pricing. It has been increased from USD 100 to USD 185 in the most recent 5 COP full versions (v12, v20, v21, v22, v23)USD 179 for yearly upgrade
    Up to USD 299 when the last update is more than 12 monthsUp to USD 299 when the last update is more than 12 months
    Old vs New Perpetual License Benefits

    The original quotes from Capture One article as below:

    COP Perpetual License Changes
    COP Perpetual License Changes

    COP’s new “perpetual license” is no longer a regular perpetual copy. It is grateful to receive such a “snapshot” as a reward through the “Loyalty Program,” but it is ridiculous to pay USD 299 (or USD 179 for yearly upgrade) and only get an uncertain period of bug fixes before the next feature release (16.x).

    How Frequent Is A Feature Release (16.x) Rolled Out?

    Determining how frequently Capture One rolls out a new feature release is crucial. I summarize the COP releases history from COP 8 to COP 23 (as of 5 Jul 2023):

    COP VersionLast ReleaseHighlighted Features In Specific COP Version
    88.3.5New – UI, heal layer, curve, HDR & WB in layer, film grain, live view

    Improved – Highlight & Shadow recovery, RAW processing engine, Natural clarity option
    99.3New – luma curve, curve in layer, create mask from color range, flow and airbrush in masking, keywords library

    Improved – engine (for brightness, contrast, saturation), DNG color, color editor UI
    1010.2.1New – 3-phrase sharpening, output proofing, halo surpression, default workplace, camera focus tool, filter for orientation, PSD support, X-trans support, Tangent hardware support

    Improved – JPEG output size/quality, auto masking, compressed RAW support, OpenCL, move folders in Catalog, delete from Collection, RAW processing engine
    1111.3.2New – Opacity in layers, Styles & Presets for layers, greyscale mask, feather and refine mask edge, duplicate checker, LAB color readout, tethering (USB-C, ethernet, wifi)

    Improved – backup and restore of Catalog, RAW processing engine
    1212.1.5New – UI, radial gradient, Grids, Guides tool, Auto Crop, Multi-crop, barcode scanner, Next Capture metadata/keywords/backup, workspace & tool lock, rasterize mask, luma range mask, Fuji film simulation

    Improved – X-trans/Fujifilm rendering, Overlay, linear gradient, keyboard shortcut manager
    2013.1.4New – Black & White slider in HDR tool, scrollable & pin interface, heal and clone brush, before/after comparison

    Improved – noise reduction, crop, brush apperance, workspace, copy/apply for layer, DNG support
    2114.4.1New – Dehaze, Speed Edit, ProStandard camera profiles, HEIF support, Sytle brush, Apple Silicon and Metal support, Magic Brush, proofing in export, password protected session

    Improved – import photos from multiple folders, WB sliders, link brush with layer, link eraser with brush, show images in Catalog
    2215.4.3New – HDR merge, Panorama, Magic Eraser, Capture One Live, wireless tethering (Sony, Canon, Nikon), cloud transfer from iPad

    Improved – tool panel, Keystone tool, Apple Silicon performance
    23*16.2.2New – Smart Adjustment, Culling, layers in Styles, change capture time, Apple ProRaw support, move Background adjustment to layer, wireless tethering for Fuji, face focus in cull and importer, auto dust removal

    Improved – performance for Sony files, cull and importer, Smart Adjustment consistency, faster preview generation
    COP Releases History

    * 16.2.2 as of 5 Jul 2023 at this post written time.

    Except for COP v12 and v20, there were 3 to 5 feature releases for each version of COP. It indicates that there are approximately 2.5-4 months bug-fixed period before the next feature release (16.x) is available.

    For example, if you purchased the COP on 14 Feb 2023, the release number is 16.0.2. You are entitled to receive bug fixes 16.0.x until 16.1 is available. Guess what? 16.1 was announced on 21 Feb 2023, one week after your purchase. Were all the COP 16.0’s bugs fixed before COP 16.1? No, some bugs were only fixed in 16.2.2.

    Are Bugs An Issue To COP?

    Bugs didn’t cause noticeable issues to my work when I used COP v21 (14.0) and earlier versions on my Mac. However, more bugs caused distrupted change to my workflow since COP v22 (15.0) as the following sections.

    Bugs In COP v22 (15.0)

    I used Sidecar XMP to sync the rating between the RAW and JPEG. It requires both RAW and JPEG to use the same filename. However, batch renaming would result in an additional “1” at the end of the JPEG filename. This bug makes the Sidecar XMP sync useless and is still not fixed in v23 (16.2.2).

    I reported the issue to Capture One’s support team in Apr 2022 and got a reply from them in Jun 2022. The few email exchanges always suggest downloading and install the latest version of COP. I did and gave up eventually, because the Capture One team couldn’t reproduce the issue, and their suggestion didn’t help resolve it. I simply don’t rename the RAW and JPEG pair after importing, and suck my thumb when I put the wrong naming convention during the importing.

    COP v22 Bug
    COP v22 Bug – Broken RAW & JPEG Pair After Batch Renaming

    Bugs In COP v23 (16.0)

    Capture One advertised its new culling system as the core feature in COP v23. I encountered two critical bugs that screwed up two wedding shot sessions (6K+ photos).

    1. The file naming just went haywire in random order! COP has been optimized to run natively on Apple Silicon since v21 (14.2.0), running fine for 2 years (v21 and v22)! Who could expect the most critical core import renaming function suddenly not work correctly on the v23? This bug was fixed in 16.0.2.
    COP v23 Bug #1 - Incorrect Import Sequence
    COP v23 Bug #1 – Incorrect Import Sequence
    1. The new culling feature introduced in 16.0 ran out of memory on a 64GB RAM M1 Max Macbook Pro. Seriously? The new highlighted core feature just failed miserably. Was there any load testing? This bug was only fixed in 16.2.2.
    COP v23 Bug #2
    COP v23 Bug #2 – Excessive Memory Consumption In Culling

    What If Those Bugs Are Discovered Under The New Perpetual License?

    As a reminder, the new perpetual license will only receive free bug fixes (16.x.x) before the next feature release is available (16.x). Imagine the bugs mentioned earlier happen in the new perpetual license as following:

    BugsFound InFixed InWhat To Do?
    Broken batch renaming for RAW and JPEG pairv15.0Not fixeddon’t do batch rename after imported photos, and pretend to be a happy user
    Haywire file importing namingv16.0v16.0.2a happy user
    Excessive memory consumption in its highlighted core culling featurev16.0v16.2.2pay up to USD 299 (depends on the bug fixes period) for the bug fixes (and additional new feature as a bonus), and be a happy user
    Simulation of Bugs Found In New Perpetual License

    The best scenario is, your perpetual version only contains minor bugs and could be fixed before the new feature release (16.x), then it will last you for a good few years. The worst? Your perpetual version (16.x) contains critical bugs (e.g., excessive memory consumption in culling), and the bugs only fixed in the new feature release (16.y). You either fork out another USD 179 (within 12 months from the last purchase) or bear with the bug.

    Pricing

    The new “Loyalty Program” makes it clearer that you will pay USD 179 for either a yearly perpetual license upgrade or an annual subscription plan.

    COP Perpetual License Past Years Price Changes

    Most companies adjust their product prices over the years. Let’s see COP’s price changes since COP v8. I started with COP 8 “for Sony” and upgraded every year to support the development. Yes, there is an official upgrading price, but how much does it cost after the “big-sales discounts”? I list the yearly upgrading prices as the following and standardize the currency to USD for easier comparison:

    COP VersionPrice (In USD inc. tax)Remarks
    v8 (for Sony)* $53Charged in EURO $40
    v9 (for Sony)* $53Charged in EURO $40
    v10 (for Sony)* $53Charged in EURO $40
    v11 (for Sony)* $89Charged in EURO $69
    v12 (full)* $239Upgraded from “for Sony” to full version, with 5 COP Styles Bundles. The standalone upgrade price was around USD 100.
    v20 (13.x, full)$107
    v21 (14.x, full)$132
    v22 (15.x, full)$153
    v23 (16.x, full)* $185Charged in SGD 250
    COP Perpetual License Upgrade Prices

    Set aside the attractive prices for the brand-specific COP version, the upgrading pricing for COP perpetual license price increases every year but stays competitive (up to v21) with other competitors. There were around $20 – $30 yearly increments from v20 to v23, seems to be a step-by-step increment to align the perpetual upgrading cost and the yearly subscription plan pricing.

    The current subscription price (USD 179) is not guaranteed to remain the same in the next few years. Would there be more customers in the future and lower the price? Or will it be increased for inflation? Nobody knows. You shall consider the future price adjustment before switching to a subscription plan. The “Loyalty Program” only gives better cost savings to long-term subscribers.

    When Does It Worth To Stop The Subscription And Convert To Perpetual License?

    Capture One’s new “Loyalty Program” offers the subscribers to convert their existing subscription plan into perpetual license at a discounted price according to the years of subscribed. I extract the new “Loyalty Program” conversion pricing from Capture One article to show whether stopping the subscription and paying for the new perpetual license is financially sensible.

    YearPrice To Convert To Perpetual License (In USD)What Could Be In The Customer’s Mind?
    1$299That is another 20 month worth of subscription. Why would I pay such premium to convert?
    2$239That is another 16 month worth of subscription. Why would I pay such premium to convert?
    3$179That is another 12 month worth of subscription. Perhaps I should subscribe for another year?
    4$119That is another 8 month worth of subscription. Should I stop the subscription and change to perpetual?
    5$59Hmmm? I thought the perpetual license is free after 5 years of subscription?
    6$0Yay!
    Perpetual License Costs In Loyalty Program

    The conversion price through the new “Loyalty Program” is a bonus to subscribers who have subscribed to COP for 5 years or more. Any earlier switch sacrifices 8 – 20 months worth of bug fixes and new feature updates. Undeniably, the new perpetual license makes the new “Loyalty Program” more promising to all subscribers. As long you need COP as your primary RAW editor, staying with the subscription plan and getting the free COP should be your choice.

    Competitor’s Pricing

    I explore a few popular alternatives and summarize their pricing and license types below:

    SoftwarePricing In USDLicense Type
    Capture One Pro$179 /yrSubscription
    Lightroom Photography Plan (LR Desktop & iPad, Photoshop Desktop & iPad, 20GB cloud storage)$120 /yrSubscription
    DxO Photolab 6$219Perpetual
    Affinity Photo$74Perpetual
    Photo Mechanic$169Perpetual
    Luminar Neo$193 or $128 /yrPerpetual / Subscription
    Pricing Comparison

    Impressively, Adobe has kept its Lightroom subscription plan at USD 9.99 per month since it was introduced in 2014.

    There are some open-source alternatives as well, e.g., Darktable, RawTherapee, GIMP, etc. Except the Photo Mechanic, I tried and used the other mentioned RAW editors for an extensive period. They have their goods and shortcomings, but all are capable of producing beautiful outcomes.

    What Could Be Done Better?

    All the perpetual license holders have to decide before 30 Sep 2023 on whether to change to the subscription plan or move to another software. According to Capture One’s FAQ, half of its customers are on a perpetual license.

    COP Customer Percentage
    COP Customer Percentage

    It is a critical period for Capture One to make the “Loyalty Program” promising and more attractive to the existing perpetual license holders.

    A Roadmap?

    Why do customers ask for a roadmap? There are two simple reasons:

    1. The product does not have absolute advantages in its price and features.
    2. The users love the product and seek justification to continue to support it.

    Let others know about what features are coming will be helpful to existing perpetual license holders to justify future commitment. Please don’t forget that perpetual COP gives a sneak peek at what is coming and attracts people to upgrade.

    Promising Bug Fixes?

    Critical bugs tend to be more challenging and time-consuming to be fixed and likely be resolved after a few feature releases. For example, the excessive memory bugs in culling exists in 16.0 is only fixed in 16.2.2.

    If you purchased COP 16.0 before 14 Feb 2023, you have the peace of mind to receive the bug fixes for free. Sadly, the new perpetual license (purchase from 14 Feb 2023 onward) requires you to pay USD 179 to buy the 16.2 for the bug fixes. Seriously?

    COP Perpetual License Changes
    COP Perpetual License Changes

    Please be fair to the customers. The bugs shouldn’t exist in the first place and should be fixed for free for all the affected users.

    More Efficient Tools?

    Capture One always improves COP’s performance and tools. Over the years, COP has featured Speed Edit, new Culling tool with auto-zoom-in on faces and auto-grouping of similar photos, Magic Brush & Eraser, Smart Adjustment tool for exposure and white balance for a series of photos, etc.

    Unfortunately, LrC’s new AI masking dwarfed COP’s advantages and tempted many users to switch. Why? Because masking always takes significant time in the workflow (30 ~ 50% depends on the individual), and it is an irreplaceable core feature in RAW editors. You can use another application for culling and noise reduction, an editing console like Loupedeck or TourBox for Speed Edit. Still, your primary RAW editor cannot directly process third-party tool masking.

    Adobe took one year to introduce the AI masking (in Oct 2022) to answer Capture One’s Magic Brush (introduced in Jul 2021). What would be Capture One’s answer this time?

    New Option For A “Restricted” Perpetual COP ?

    Kudos to Capture One for offering the option to buy a full version of COP. How about a free restricted COP version like what LrC does? When I stop the subscription, it likely means I have little to no editing or switching software. However, I still want to access my existing work in COP Catalog hence a free “restricted” COP is good enough. (Yes, Adobe, please learn from Capture One and provide an alternative option to purchase a full working perpetual copy.)

    Reinstate The Regular Perpetual License?

    It is an excellent initiative to give a free “snapshot” copy of COP for long-term subscribers as a “Loyalty Program”. But why forfeit those pay in full for the perpetual license? Making the perpetual license less appealing doesn’t help to transform the perpetual license holders into subscribers.

    Please consider reinstating the regular perpetual license.

    Better Marketing Approaches?

    Better means more straightforward wording and being frank with the customers. Yes, “smart” marketing wording and approaches might earn the company a few rounds of money. However, customers only get more frustrated/disappointed when the impression and reality differ.

    Please don’t forget that there is something more important than money: the customer’s trust and respect. Eventually, it will impact future sales more dramatically than the expectation.

    More Stable Build?

    Recent COP more frequently breaks existing core functions (e.g., haywire file renaming during import, crashes, etc.). It is pointless to rush for new features but break the existing core. Severe/professional photographers need a stable working tool, not a flashy fragile toy.

    Final Thoughts

    Capture One Pro is a fantastic RAW processing software. Please be thankful and respect the team who spent countless time and effort to bring us this productivity tool over the years.

    Unfortunately, Capture One chose to announce the changes to perpetual license in Dec 2022 (right after Adobe announced the brilliant AI subject masking in Oct 2022). The worse? Adobe announced another prominent AI Denoise feature in Apr 2023. That’s a “double-kill” for those comparing Adobe and Capture One’s subscription plan’s values. Besides, other companies like DxO, Affinity Photos, etc., still offer a regular perpetual license for whoever resists a subscription model.

    Despite the higher cost, I upgraded COP yearly to support its development and as an appreciation for the more efficient tools. However, Capture One recent “smart” marketing approaches are disappointing and raise my concern for COP’s future direction. As such, I will hold back the subsequent upgrades and reconsider COP when it proves itself worthy.

    Are you on the fence to stay or switch from COP? What’s your choice? Let us know what’s your opinion in the comment below. I hope this post will help you clarify some of your doubts and make a decision. Cheers!

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  • Photography Gear For Your First Event/Wedding Shoot – Part III

    Photography Gear For Your First Event/Wedding Shoot – Part III

    It is part III about the photography gear for your first event/wedding shoot. I will talk about the accessories (what and why) I always bring for events/wedding photoshoots. If you have not read the part I and II, feel free to check them out through the links below:

    • Part I – The Cameras (Read here)
    • Part II – The Lenses (Read here)
    • Part III – The Accessories (This Post)

    1. Camera Straps

    A camera strap is highly recommended for single-camera shooters and a must-have for dual-camera shooters. It allows you to access your camera anytime without holding it restlessly. Besides, it can save your camera and lens if your hand slips.

    Single-Camera Strap

    The Peak Design (PD) Slide Lite is my all-time favorite for a single-camera strap. The quick-release anchor is sturdy, secure, and works seamlessly across PD accessories. PD products have a higher but reasonable price tag. Most (or all?) PD products have the outstanding build quality and a lifetime warranty (The team is generous to acknowledge and replace the faulty product without extra cost).

    Sadly, PD doesn’t have any dual-camera harness or accessories to merge two single-camera straps into a dual-camera harness (Yea, I tried to DIY some “merger” but it restricts the camera movements).

    Peak Design Slide Lite
    Peak Design Slide Lite

    Dual-camera Harness

    So, I get a proper dual-camera harness from Tamrac. Its design resembles the BlackRapid dual harness, except they use different camera connectors mechanisms. Tamrac uses a so-called “TamLoc Connector” with a stainless steel core and plastic outer coating. Each strap has two anti-slip stoppers to prevent the camera from sliding wildly.

    The strap is made of lightweight and durable ballistic materials, making it compact when folded. Its padding is comfortable for carrying two cameras with flashlights for a whole day. Besides, it can be dismantled to become two single-camera straps. The build quality is good but not as great as PD straps.

    I tried my friend’s Coiro leather dual-camera harness in one of the wedding shoots. It has an extra fail-safe strap and is comfortable too. The leather is thick, and there are bold stitches on the edges. The movement parts are connected with thick metal rings, and the metal connectors are sturdy with a quick-release mechanism. It will be my next dual-camera harness when my current one decides to retire.

    Tamrac Dual Camera Harness
    Tamrac Dual Camera Harness

    2. Flashlight

    What Do I Use?

    It is a big debate topic about using natural light or a flashlight, but I will not discuss it here. I use two Godox v860 III and a Godox v350. The Godox v860 III is a GN60 full-size flash, while the v350 is a GN36 compact flash. They are powered by lithium batteries.

    Tips #1

    Set the external flash (a full-size GN60 flashlight) in Manual mode and start with 1/8 power. Adjust the power accordingly until the shot is looked natural without any trace of the flash in the frame.
    Godox Flashlights
    Godox Flashlights

    Why?

    The idea of using a flashlight is to control the light on your subject and blend the flash with the ambient light. Don’t overpower it and create those typical “flash looks”. My requirement for a flashlight is simple:

    1. Use lithium batteries instead of AA batteries (lithium battery has faster recycle time and last most than double per charge)
    2. Can be controlled by a wireless flash trigger

    Tips #2

    A flashlight usually has a detachable foot with a standard 1/4″ thread hole at the bottom. Use it to mount the flashlight onto a light stand or tripod.

    Ideally, we should use two same-model flashlights to share the spare batteries. I chose the Godox v350 for its compact size (almost half the size and weight of a full-size flashlight) when I first started to learn and use a flashlight in event photoshoots (I was a single-camera shooter a few years ago). Both models use different models of lithium batteries. Still, they can last approximately 500 shots at full power (they usually last more than a thousand shots for me as I generally use the flash manually at 1/8 or lower power).

    3. A Handy Toolbox

    Well, you already know that you need extra batteries and memory cards. There is one more step to make them more handy – keep one or two of them in your pocket! I use a hard case from Kiwi Fotos to carry 2 spare batteries and 4 SD cards. It is small enough to stuff into my jeans pocket and allows me to replace the depleted battery anytime without running back to my camera backpack.

    Tips #3

    Place your memory card facing down in a memory card casing to indicate it is a used card.

    You may consider using soft-pouch bags with a velcro belt strap to carry the spare batteries and SD cards. It can be a soft pouch for a compact camera, a carrying bag for a flashlight, or even one made explicitly for camera batteries.

    Batteries & Memory Cards Box
    Batteries & Memory Cards Box
    Batteries & Memory Cards Pouch
    Batteries & Memory Cards Pouch

    4. Cleaning Kits

    What Do I Use?

    A piece of microfiber cloth, an air blower, and a bottle of Zeiss cleaning fluid. 

    Why?

    I always use an air blower to blow away the camera sensor’s dust before swapping the lens. If I realize the photo is hazy, I will 

    1. Use the air blower on the lens front glass element.
    2. Spray a bit (a half-press) of Zeiss cleaning fluid onto the microfiber cloth.
    3. Gently wipe the lens front glass clockwise.
    Cleaning Kits
    Cleaning Kits

    Any microfiber cloth and air blower will do a great cleaning job. However, we shall look for a proper cleaning fluid from a reputable brand. It shall be able to effectively remove the oil stain while protecting the coating layers on the modern lenses’ front glass element.

    Zeiss is well-known for camera lenses, and its cleaning products are inexpensive (2 bottles of Zeiss cleaning fluid with a microfiber cloth cost around SDG 20, but the price might be varied in different countries). So far, I only used half a bottle since I purchased them 3 – 4 years ago (I only use it when a lens gets stained accidentally).

    5. Powerbank

    What Do I Use?

    I use a 10000 mAh powerbank with USB Power-Delivery (PD) protocol as an emergency backup for the cameras and phones.

    Why?

    Modern cameras have a micro-USB or USB-C port for in-body battery charging or even support for shooting with an external power source connected. You can charge your camera batteries on the road if you run out of batteries.

    Tips #4

    Some cameras require USB Power-Delivery (PD) powerbank as an external power source. Otherwise, the camera only charges the battery but cannot operate concurrently.
    Powerbank
    Powerbank

    6. Camera Backpack

    What Do I Use?

    I own a few sling bags, messenger bags, and backpacks from Sony, Lowepro, Crumpler, Tamrac, Manfrotto, and Peak Design. However, a 30L backpack is always my first choice when I go to any event/wedding photoshoot.

    I use the Peak Design 30L Everyday backpack but you may consider any other reputable brand’s backpack for your need.

    Why?

    There are a few points for consideration when buying a camera backpack:

    • The size. A 30L backpack is sufficient to carry the following:
    • 2 full-frame Sony mirrorless bodies
    • 4 – 5 lenses (Sony GM 24mm F1.4, Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8, Sigma Art 85mm F1.4, Tamron VXD 20-40mm F2.8, Samyang 14mm F1.4)
    • 2 full-size flashlights
    • 1 dual-camera harness
    • 1 camera strap
    • 2 hard casings for spare batteries and SD cards
    • 1 powerbank
    • 1 cleaning kits
    Peak Design Everyday Backpack 30L
    Peak Design Everyday Backpack 30L
    • Customizable paddings. It is crucial that the padding is flexible to accommodate your gear placement.
    • Separated laptop compartment. Suppose you use a laptop or tablet for tethering. In that case, it is better to have a separate compartment to carry and protect it from your other equipment.
    • Comfort. It is essential to have a thick but cooling padded shoulder strap and lower-back padding on the backpack. Carrying a 7 – 10 KG backpack at the end of the day is no joke at all.
    • Accessories pockets. I separate the new and used batteries into different pockets. Hence, it is easier to get a fully-charged battery without a try-and-error. Some brands (like Peak Design) use different color markings to help differentiate the usage.
    • Side pocket. I always bring a compact water bottle and keep myself hydrated. It is useful to hold a compact tripod or light stand too.

    Final Thoughts

    Out of the mentioned accessories, only the camera strap is an important (a must-have for dual-camera shooters) accessory you have to bring along for an event/wedding shoot. Other accessories are more like a “first-aid” box to get your camera and lens back in optimal working condition ASAP.

    It is a relief to have a mind of “Yes, luckily I have another backup in my bag” instead of “Ah… I should bring xx to fix this issue.” when shooting solo. How do I know what to bring along for an event/wedding photoshoot? In short, by experience. In a longer answer, create a gear checklist for the event/wedding shoot and slowly refine it after each photoshoot session.

    I hope the three posts (Part I, Part II, and this post) will give you a better idea of what to bring for your first event or wedding photoshoot. Feel free to leave your comment below for discussion or sharing of your experience.

    Is This Post Helpful To You?

    I started this site with the intention of sharing my learning and working experience in photography. It takes significant time and cost to pick up and learn a new gear/technique, and then draft a post to share with everyone. The effort is worthwhile if it helps you and others save unnecessary time and money. I would be glad if you benefit from my content, and you may leave a one-off tip to keep this site running.

    Besides, you may support this site by making your purchase through the affiliated links below. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Any Link To The Mentioned Products?

    As a regular online buyer of photography equipment, I understand the anxiety about getting a fake or faulty product. However, buying from online stores is more convenient and has a more attractive offer sometimes. Therefore, I only recommend two types of product links I generally use for my online purchase:

    1. Official product page, for you to find out more details about the product, and buy from them directly (if applicable)
    2. Amazon page. I recommend to buy the product with the option “Ship from” and “Sold By” Amazon “xx”, where “xx” is a country code like US, SG, JAPAN, etc.

    Some product pages are affiliate links. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission to support the cost of running this site so I can provide more photography content for free regularly.

    As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Mentioned Product Links

    Some of the mentioned products in this post are available in the following table (the official site and Amazon page). I will omit the Amazon link as “N.A.” if the product is not available or overpriced (Yea, some products on Amazon are 50% ~ 100% overpriced than their retail prices).

    ProductsOfficial SiteAmazon
    Peak Design Slide LitePeak DesignAmazon – PD
    Tamrac Dual-Camera HarnessTamracN.A.
    BlackRapid Dual-Camera HarnessBlackRapidAmazon – Black rapid
    Coiro Dual-Camera HarnessCoiroAmazon – Coiro
    Godox V860 III FlashGodoxN.A.
    Zeiss Cleaning KitZeissAmazon – Zeiss
    Peak Design Everyday BackpackPeak DesignN.A.
    Mentioned Product Links
  • Photography Gear For Your First Event/Wedding Shoot – Part II

    Photography Gear For Your First Event/Wedding Shoot – Part II

    It is Part II about the photography gear for your first event/wedding shoot. I will discuss the lenses I use and explain why I chose them for my event/wedding photoshoot. Please feel free to check out Part I (The Cameras – Read here) if you have not read it yet.

    1. Lenses

    Most modern lenses (except for faulty lenses) offer a reasonably good/excellent center sharpness (corner sharpness is not my concern for any portrait shots). Instead, figure out the most frequently used focal length is the highest priority before considering other requirements.

    Tips #1

    Begin your first few events shoots with a standard zoom lens (e.g., 24-70mm), and use the filter function in your post-processing software (e.g., Lightroom, Capture One, etc.) to find out your most used focal length.

    The following list is the lenses I always bring along (primary workhorse) and occasionally pick (supplementary/backup) for all paid photoshoots.

    Primary Workhorse

    • a1. Sony GM 24mm F1.4
    • a2. Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8
    • a3. Sigma DG DN Art 85mm F1.4

    Supplementary / Backup

    • b1. Tamron RXD 28-75mm F2.8
    • b2. Tamron VXD 20-40mm F2.8
    • b3. Samyang 14mm F2.8
    Lenses
    Lenses

    Why These Lenses?

    I used and tested many lenses before I selected the lenses above to shoot in events, weddings, and lifestyle portraits. There is only one must-have requirement when I look for a lens for portrait shoot – a responsive and reliable continuous AF. The reason is simple. People are moving in the event/wedding most of the time. Continuous AF can better track your moving subjects and capture more sharply-focused shots.

    Besides the continuous AF, there are some other good-to-have requirements for consideration:

    • Flare resistance (some march-in sessions will have a strong backlight and mess up the contrast of your subjects)
    • Large magnification ratio, e.g., 0.25x or higher (it saves you from having a separate macro lens to shoot the accessories, e.g., rings)
    • Dust and moisture resistance (you might encounter drizzling during the outdoor photoshoot)
    • Same filter thread size (it is easier to buy and share filters)

    Why Sony GM 24mm F1.4?

    GM is the highest-quality lens Sony offers. The AF, optical performance, and built quality are top-notch. Besides, you hardly find GM’s creamy Bokeh rendering in other brand lenses.

    Sony GM 24mm F1.4 is my #1 go-to lens for environment portraits and group photos. It is also incredibly useful in a less-spacious place like a hotel room or bride preparation room where it is too restrictive for a 35mm or even a 28mm lens (Yea, I’m talking about Tamron 28-75mm F2.8).

    The F1.4 aperture at 24mm offers an excellent background separation from your subject. It renders a silky smooth Bokeh background while keeping the environment recognizable.

    Sony GM 24mm F1.4 Sample

    Why Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8?

    This lens is exclusive to Sony E-mount cameras, but you can find the equivalent 70-200mm F2.8 for other brands’ cameras. The 70-200mm F2.8 lens usually represents the best quality lens from the manufacturer. VXD is Tamron’s latest linear motor AF mechanism that offers the highest accuracy and AF speed, and it is comparable to the XD linear motor found in Sony GM lenses.

    Tips #2

    A constant F2.8 aperture is highly recommended (or a must) for a 70-200mm zoom lens

    Using such a telephoto zoom lens gives you the flexibility to have photos from different perspectives in the album – 70mm, 85mm, 135mm, and 180mm.

    Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8 Sample

    Why Sigma DG DN Art 85mm F1.4?

    The Art series offers the best optical quality performance among the Sigma lenses. This lens even outperforms Sony’s GM 85mm F1.4 in sharpness, Bokeh, and AF. The DG DN is the newer version with a much smaller and lighter body than its older DG HSM version.

    Tips #3

    F1.8 aperture is an excellent alternative to F1.4 on an 85mm lens. It usually costs half or even 1/3 of the F1.4 85mm lens price.

    It efficiently isolates subjects from busy backgrounds and gives a WOW micro-contrast effect. I used my friend’s Sigma Art 85mm F1.4 in a wedding shoot and loved the photo’s look. I eventually bought one for my next photoshoots.

    In case you are unaware, using a 70-200mm F2.8 or 85mm F1.4 lens in an event/wedding shoot is constantly debated among photographers. There is no right or wrong. Rent and try them out to decide which lens is more suitable for you.

    Sigma Art 85mm F1.4 Sample

    Why Tamron RXD 28-75mm F2.8?

    It was the first F2.8 compact zoom lens exclusively available to Sony E-mount cameras in 2018. Other brand equivalent lenses will be the 24-70mm F2.8.

    It rivals the 1st gen Sony GM 24-70mm F2.8 with half the size and weight but at the expense of losing 4mm at the wide end. Besides, it has a softer corner sharpness (As mentioned earlier, I don’t care about corner sharpness in any portrait shots).

    Tips #4

    Tamron introduced its successor (the VXD version) in 2021 with an improved Bokeh, sharpness, and AF performance.

    I have used this lens in numerous seminars, workshops, town halls, and company events photoshoots since 2018, and it never let me down. The 28mm is sufficient in these event venues as there are a lot of space for me to move around. However, 28mm could be restrictive in certain places, e.g., hotel room, bedroom, bride preparation room, etc.

    Tamron RXD 28-75mm F2.8 Sample

    Why Tamron VXD 20-40mm F2.8?

    It is another unique lens exclusive to Sony E-mount cameras. Other brand equivalent lenses will be the 16-35mm F2.8. This lens is not a replacement for a 16-35mm lens. The 4mm difference between the 16mm and 20mm is too significant to be ignored.

    Tips #5

    For a single-camera shooter, a standard zoom 24-70mm F2.8 or even Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 is a better option for an event/wedding shoot.

    However, I get it as an upgrade to the Tamron RXD 28-75mm F2.8 for the broader 20mm view and better AF performance. Since I’m a dual-camera shooter, it is not an issue with missing the 41 – 75mm range because I will always pair it with a telephoto lens.

    Tamron VXD 20-40mm F2.8 Sample

    Why Samyang 14mm F2.8?

    You may use the 16mm from a 16-35mm zoom lens for similar ultra-wide-angle shots. It is a very situational lens, so there might only be one to two photos (or none at all) from this lens in the whole album. I use it to exaggerate the environment for an epic effect.

    Tips #6

    When using a UWA lens, you must place your subject in the center of the frame to avoid crazy distortion.
    Samyang 14mm F2.8 Sample

    Any Difference Between OEM and Third-Party Lenses?

    In short, the differences are unnoticeable in general photoshoots. There are some advantages to using Sony OEM lenses, e.g., a maximum of 30 fps (OEM) vs 15 fps (third-party) burst shoot, exclusive in-camera features, more reliable AF, etc. In fact, most full-frame cameras only support up to 10 fps, and some OEM lens benefits only applies to video recording. By spending a little bit of time and effort, you can get some third-party (Tamron, Sigma, etc.) lenses that offer similar/on-par optical performance as Sony’s highest-quality GM lenses and have a comparably reliable and responsive AF system.

    Zoom Lens Or Prime Lens?

    A zoom lens is more convenient (and addictive) to use in events/wedding shoots. It saves you from the hassle of swapping lenses and gives multiple perspective shots in your album within seconds (e.g., use the 24mm to capture the environment and zoom in 70mm for the close-up shots of your subjects).

    On the other hand, a prime lens generally has a one/two-stop faster aperture (2-stop faster on an F1.4 prime lens over an F2.8 zoom lens) in a more compact and lighter build. A faster aperture lens has better low-light performance and a more creamy Bokeh rendering. It is good to have the option to use F1.4/F1.8 when necessary.

    If you are a single-camera shooter, I suggest you use a fast standard zoom(e.g., 24-70mm F2.8 or Tamron 28-75mm F2.8) in your first few events/wedding shoots. It helps you to determine your most used focal length and decide how many fast prime is required. As a dual-camera shooter, I always pair an 85mm F1.4 and 24mm F1.4 fast prime on both cameras. A 35mm fast prime could be broad enough, depending on your shooting location.

    2. Lens Caps And Hoods

    What Do I use?

    The lens cap and hood that come with the lens purchase are good enough. I only put on a lens cap when the lens is in the bag during transportation. However, I always keep the lens hood on the lens during a photoshoot.

    Tips #8

    Lens hoods are not interchangeable because they are specifically designed for each lens to maximize the lens’ contrast/saturation while minimizing vignetting.

    Why?

    Put on a lens hood will make the lens looks bulkier, but it has more advantages to do so:

    1. A lens hood will minimize/eliminate the unwanted flaring that could result in a washed-out/low-contrast shot.
    2. Protect the lens from bumping anything
    3. Prevent anyone from accidentally touching the lens front glass element and leaving any fingerprint/stain on it

    You may take it off and let the flare spread across the frame for a specific atmosphere/look.

    Lens Hoods
    Lens Hoods

    3. Lens Filters

    What Do I Use?

    I have UV/protector filters from brands like B+W, Tamron, Hoya, K&F Concept, and Nikon. I always put a UV filter on the lens for any photoshoot. I used to be a B+W UV filter user, but the Nikon Arcrest protector has recently earned its place on my primary lenses.

    Why?

    One simple reason – protection. UV/protector filter offers a quick solution to clean your lens – simply remove it, and you are good to continue the photoshoot. There are two essential factors when I am looking for a UV/protector filter:

    UV/Protector Filters
    UV/Protector Filters
    1. Multi-layer coating. A filter with a multi-layer coating tends to have a better light transmission rate. Higher light transmission usually results in lesser light reflexion, brighter color, and better contrast. For example, a filter with 99% light transmission has 1% light reflexion. 
    2. The thickness. A thick bezel filter can cause vignetting, especially on a wide-angle lens.

    A good UV/protector filter usually has minor/unnoticeable impacts on the image quality. However, different filters behave differently on different lenses. For example, an ultra-wide-angle lens is more prone to heavy vignetting when using a thick filter; a telephoto lens is more prone to softness when using a lower-quality filter (could be a defective variant, a counterfeit, or a worn-out copy).

    Tips #9

    There are many counterfeit filters in the market. Try to get an authentic filter from reputable retailers.

    When you get a new UV/protector filter, test it against the lens without a filter for the contrast in backlight, color cast, sharpness, and internal ghosting. Most multi-layer coated filters from reputable brands (e.g., B+W, Hoya, Nikon Arcrest, etc.) have similar performance (when comparing their same tier of products). Some brands have different tiers in their filters. The more expensive one is generally made of better quality materials, like more rigid glass, more efficient coating, sturdier brass frame, etc. It helps the filter to minimize the impact on the image quality in challenging lighting.

    Tips #10

    Some manufacturers have a “Protector” version of the UV filters. They are cheaper than their UV counterpart but have similar optical performance.

    I recently bought a few entry-level filters for some side-by-side comparison to determine the difference between a cheap and expensive UV filter. I will share the finding with you in a separate post.

    Any Other Special Effect Filters?

    Yes! There are a few worth-mention filters, but I only use them in casual photoshoots. I prefer to keep my formal shots clean and clear, and there are workarounds to achieve similar filter effects.

    Close-up filter. A screw-on type filter acts as an alternative to a dedicated macro lens. It has different multipliers, e.g., +2, +4, +10, etc. The larger multiplier, the higher the magnification effect. Besides, you can stack them to achieve a more significant magnification effect. However, the close-up filter has a limited close-focus distance range that restricts your lens from focusing anything further away. Therefore, you must take it off for regular shooting.

    Tips #11

    Some non-macro lenses can achieve an impressive 0.5x magnification ratio (e.g., Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8), thus reducing the need for a close-up filter.

    ND filter. A black glass filter that darkens your exposure. It has different values, e.g., ND8, ND400, ND1000, etc. The higher value, the lower exposure. A professional camera has a native flash sync speed of 1/250s (some cameras only support a slower sync speed at 1/200s or 1/160s). An ND filter allows you to use a fast prime at F1.8/F1.4 with a flashlight on a sunny day.

    Tips #12

    Use a High-Speed Sync (HSS) instead of an ND filter if your camera and flashlight support HSS. It allows your camera and flashlight to sync at the fastest shutter speed your camera supports (e.g., 1/4000s, 1/8000s).

    Blackmist filter. It softens the highlights and renders a dreamy effect. It has different strengths, e.g., 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8. The higher strength, the blurrier effect.

    Tips #13

    You can achieve a similar soft rendering in post-processing by adjusting the clarity of the highlights using luma-range selection.

    Closing Thoughts

    The lens is as critical as the camera in a photoshoot. Its focal length, optical rendering (sharpness, contrast, Bokeh, etc.), and AF performance dramatically affects the photo’s overall look and feel. For comfort-wise, you might start with a zoom lens and convert it to fast prime for a specific look when you are more comfortable in an event/wedding shoot.

    Everyone has a different vision and preference in lens choice. You may use a 35/50mm fast prime, an F2.8 standard zoom, or a telephoto plus wide-angle lens combo. Regardless of the selection of lenses, the most important thing is to focus sharply on your subjects and capture the precious moment.

    Feel free to leave your comments below if you have any doubts or suggestions for the lenses. Besides, I will discuss the accessories I used in events/wedding shoots in Part III (read here). Peace!

    Is This Post Helpful To You?

    I started this site with the intention of sharing my learning and working experience in photography. It takes significant time and cost to pick up and learn a new gear/technique, and then draft a post to share with everyone. The effort is worthwhile if it helps you and others save unnecessary time and money. I would be glad if you benefit from my content, and you may leave a one-off tip to keep this site running.

    Besides, you may support this site by making your purchase through the affiliated links below. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Any Link To The Mentioned Products?

    As a regular online buyer of photography equipment, I understand the anxiety about getting a fake or faulty product. However, buying from online stores is more convenient and has a more attractive offer sometimes. Therefore, I only recommend two types of product links I generally use for my online purchase:

    1. Official product page, for you to find out more details about the product, and buy from them directly (if applicable)
    2. Amazon page. I recommend to buy the product with the option “Ship from” and “Sold By” Amazon “xx”, where “xx” is a country code like US, SG, JAPAN, etc.

    Some product pages are affiliate links. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission to support the cost of running this site so I can provide more photography content for free regularly.

    As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Mentioned Product Links

    Some of the mentioned products in this post are available in the following table (the official site and Amazon page).

    ProductsOfficial SiteAmazon
    Sony GM 24mm F1.4SonyAmazon – Sony
    Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8TamronAmazon – Tamron
    Sigma DG DN Art 85mm F1.4SigmaAmazon – Sigma
    Tamron VXD 28-75mm F2.8 (I recommend the 2nd Gen as it is a vast improved successor)TamronAmazon – Tamron
    Tamron VXD 20-40mm F2.8TamronAmazon – Tamron
    Samyang 14mm F2.8SamyangAmazon – Samyang
    Mentioned Product Links
  • Photography Gear For Your First Event/Wedding Shoot – Part I

    Photography Gear For Your First Event/Wedding Shoot – Part I

    Are you curious about what photography gear to bring for your first paid event or wedding shoot? And the worst, you are the sole photographer for the whole photoshoot. You might hear that the essence of shooting solely is backup. You must ensure you can carry out the photoshoot even if any part of your equipment breaks.

    Yea, they rarely break, but the accident does happen in the least expected way. Is it necessary to bring your entire collection of photography gear along? In short, no. I compile the following list to show you what gear I use and why I use them during an event/wedding shoot.

    I am a Sony shooter; hence I will always refer to the gear available to Sony cameras. However, the rationale behind this also applies to other brands (I also indicate a general spec/model for other brands). I split this topic into 3 posts to avoid a “mega post”, and I will talk about camera-related items in this post.

    1. Cameras

    What do I use?

    Sony A7 III and A7 IV.

    Tips #1

    Use the same brand’s cameras in order to share the batteries, lenses, and similar control interface.

    Why?

    There are a few important factors to consider when choosing a camera for an event and wedding shoot.

    Cameras
    Cameras
    • A responsive and reliable continuous Auto-Focus system is the highest priority
    • Dual memory card slots (always have the photo written into two memory cards simultaneously)
    • Good battery life that can sustain 600 – 700 shots per charge
    • Good high ISO performance (usable at least ISO 3200. Indoor event/wedding shoots can quickly go up to ISO 12800 or higher to maintain a minimum required shutter speed)
    • Good range of lens selection from OEM and third-parties.

    I believe most modern full-frame mirrorless cameras from any brand can easily fulfill the criteria above. However, it was not the case before the Sony A7 III was introduced in 2018. The earlier generation full-frame mirrorless cameras undoubtedly failed all the above requirements (with a day and night difference).

    Tips #2

    The same brand’s cameras in the same-generation/one-generation-different usually offer similar image quality and control interface. Therefore, the primary and backup camera is not necessary to be the same model.

    Sony A7 III and A7 IV offer indistinguishable image quality despite having 24MP and 33 MP sensors, respectively. I bought the A7 IV for its improved AF performance and upgraded video functions for other projects.

    Full-Frame Or APS-C?

    In short, full-frame. Full-frame cameras still have an edge over APS-C cameras in the high ISO performance. In order to prevent motion blur, you have to set the shutter speed to at least 1/160s. You will be surprised that many indoor shots will easily hit the ISO 10000 mark with that shutter speed at the F2.8 aperture.

    Tips #3

    Full-frame Sensor ISO = Crop Sensor ISO * Crop Factor * Crop Factor

    Generally, APS-C cameras produce comfortable/acceptable noise at ISO 3200/6400. In contrast, full-frame cameras can comfortably handle noise at ISO 6400/12800. Still, please don’t forget to factor in the crop factor. ISO 3200 on an APS-C camera with a 1.5x crop factor will produce noise level equivalent to ISO 7200 on a full-frame camera (things get more complicated when factoring in the sensor resolution difference, but let’s keep it simple here).

    Are Super High Megapixel Cameras Suitable For Event And Wedding Shoots? 

    I will say no. There are some considerations if you intend to use high-megapixel cameras (e.g., 61MP Sony A7R IV/V) for event and wedding shoots:

    • The high ISO performance is not as good as the lower megapixel cameras.
    • It is easier to get blurry photos as higher megapixel sensors amplify everything, like handshakes, movement, and shutter vibrations.
    • When shooting uncompressed RAW, A 61MP RAW is double the size of a 33MP RAW (135MB vs 70MB) or nearly triple the size of a 24MP RAW (135MB vs 50MB). You need a more powerful workstation for culling, editing, and exporting. A less-than-ideal workstation could significantly prolong the post-processing when handling a few thousand shots for a single session.
    • If you shoot in burst mode, you need an SD card with a faster write speed (e.g., UHS-II 312 MB/s vs UHS-I 104 MB/s) to prevent the camera from filling up its buffer (the camera will lock you from taking new photos when the buffer is full). Such high-speed UHS-II SD cards cost 4 – 5 times more than the fastest-speed USH-I SD card.
    • You need more SD cards for shooting and storage space for archival.
    • The super high megapixel camera is more demanding in lens resolving power. Otherwise, the photo could be soft.

    2. Memory Cards

    What Do I Use?

    Sandisk Extreme Pro and Sony UHS-I SD cards with 64GB or 128GB storage space.

    Why?

    I use a 128 GB SD card in the camera’s slot 1 as the master memory card for the entire event. I put a 64GB SD card in the camera’s slot 2 as the backup and changed it at each logical event break, e.g., bride’s house, solemnization, banquets, etc. 

    Memory Cards
    Memory Cards

    Tips #4

    Smaller storage space SD card could have slower read/write speed. Watch out for the specification when getting SD cards of different speeds.

    This setup allows me to:

    1. Use a single master SD card to import all photos
    2. Have a few copies of different parts of the event in case the camera is lost

    Tips #5

    Please do not delete the photos from the SD cards until your clients receive their shots happily.

    In case you wonder, a 128GB SD card is sufficient for a 8-hour full-day event/wedding shoot with Sony A7 IV’s 33MP lossless RAW + medium size X.FINE Jpeg (it can hold approximately 2200 shots).

    Tips #6

    UHS-II SD cards have a few different read/write speeds. Some are even slower than a UHS-I SD card.

    UHS-I SD cards have fast enough writing speed for shooting “MID” bursts in uncompressed/lossless compressed RAW. Interestingly, SanDisk dramatically increases their UHS-I SD card read speed from 95 MB/s to 200 MB/s (it means the speed of transferring a photo to a computer is 2 times faster). As a rule of thumb, always purchase the memory card from a reputable retailer/brand.

    3. Batteries

    How Many Battery Is Required?

    It depends on your camera model and your shooting style. For example, the original Sony NP-FZ100 battery lasts approximately 700+ shots on Sony A7 III and 600+ shots on Sony A7 IV. You usually get more shots when taking burst shoots. However, burst shoot intensity does impact the battery life differently. For example, using the “HI” or “HI+” settings in burst shoot will significantly drain more battery life than the “MID” setting.

    I made the following table for a clearer view of the battery usage according to my camera setup.

    Sony NP-FZ100 Batteries
    Sony NP-FZ100 Batteries
    Event Duration/TypeSony A7 IV (Mounted with telephoto lens)Sony A7 III (Mounted with wide-angle lens)
    1 – 3 Hours Seminar/ Workshop/ Townhall1 Battery1 Battery
    6 – 10 Hours Wedding Actual Day2 Batteries1 – 2 Batteries, depends on the scenes
    10 – 14 Hours Wedding Actual Day3 Batteries2 Batteries
    Battery Usage Reference

    I use a dual-camera setup, with the Lossless Compressed RAW + X.Fine medium-size JPEG written into two SD cards simultaneously and “MID” in burst shoot. I usually bring 6 Sony NP-FZ100 batteries for my two-camera setup on a full-day wedding shoot (around 10 – 12 hours). It is always good to carry extra one or two batteries in case any battery gets faulty.

    4. Camera Vertical Grip

    What Do I Use?

    I use a Sony VG-C4EM vertical battery grip on my A7 IV. A few third-party manufacturers make brilliant vertical grips. Unfortunately, only a few reviews were available for Sony A7 IV’s third-party vertical grips when I looked for one in 2022.

    Why?

    The vertical grip holds two batteries simultaneously to double the battery life. However, I choose it for another reason – the ergonomics.

    Sony VG-C4EM
    Sony VG-C4EM Vertical Battery Grip

    I tend to shoot vertically more often when using telephoto lenses. I usually pair an 85mm fast prime or the Tamron VXD 70-180mm F2.8 on my Sony A7 IV. The higher megapixels sensor allows me to have more room for cropping to get a closer look. A vertical grip helps a lot to relieve hand fatigue from the over-arching posture. It can reduce the front-heavy issue if you use a heavy lens on a mirrorless camera body.

    Closing Thoughts

    It doesn’t matter if you choose Sony, Nikon, or Canon. Modern full-frame mirrorless cameras introduced after 2018 are sufficient for most events and wedding photoshoots. When allocating the budget, you must cater for the primary camera, a secondary (or backup) camera, 2 ~ 3 lenses, 3 ~ 6 camera batteries, 1 ~ 2 chargers, 6 ~ 10 memory cards (recommend at least UHS-I 64GB), some accessories, and a PC/laptop that can smoothly process thousands of RAW photos at one go (if you don’t have one currently).

    Choose the one you prefer and fits your budget, then familiarize yourself with the camera. The customized shortcut buttons, continuous AF performance (some brands call AI/Servo/AF-C), and ISO limit (modern full-frame cameras are great at ISO6400/12800). It helps ease your tension during the actual photoshoot as you know your camera is “in-controlled”.

    This post wraps up the camera-related topics for the event/wedding photoshoot. Below are the links for parts II and III.

    • Part I – The Cameras (This post)
    • Part II – The Lenses (Read here)
    • Part III – The Accessories (Read here)

    Is This Post Helpful To You?

    I started this site with the intention of sharing my learning and working experience in photography. It takes significant time and cost to pick up and learn a new gear/technique, and then draft a post to share with everyone. The effort is worthwhile if it helps you and others save unnecessary time and money. I would be glad if you benefit from my content, and you may leave a one-off tip to keep this site running.

    Besides, you may support this site by making your purchase through the affiliated links below. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Any Link To The Mentioned Products?

    As a regular online buyer of photography equipment, I understand the anxiety about getting a fake or faulty product. However, buying from online stores is more convenient and has a more attractive offer sometimes. Therefore, I only recommend two types of product links I generally use for my online purchase:

    1. Official product page, for you to find out more details about the product, and buy from them directly (if applicable)
    2. Amazon page. I recommend to buy the product with the option “Ship from” and “Sold By” Amazon “xx”, where “xx” is a country code like US, SG, JAPAN, etc.

    Some product pages are affiliate links. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission to support the cost of running this site so I can provide more photography content for free regularly.

    As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Mentioned Product Links

    Some of the mentioned products in this post are available in the following table (the official site and Amazon page).

    ProductsOfficial SiteAmazon
    Sony A7 IIISony A7 IIIAmazon – Sony A7 III
    Sony A7 IVSony A7 IVAmazon – Sony A7 IV
    Sony VG-C4EM vertical battery gripSony VG-C4EMAmazon – VG-C4EM
    Sandisk Extreme Pro SD cardsSandisk Extrem ProAmazon – Sandisk Extreme Pro
    Mentioned Product Links
  • How To Fix NextGen Gallery Pro Thumbnail Sharpness?

    How To Fix NextGen Gallery Pro Thumbnail Sharpness?

    Update 2025 JUN #1 – The bug that affects the gallery thumbnail sharpness on retina screen devices has been fixed. NextGen Pro users, you may download the latest NGG Pro plugin from your Imagely profile, the latest version shall be 3.31.8.

    Update 2025 JAN #1 – There is a reported bug that affects the gallery thumbnail sharpness on retina screens. At the moment, Imagely team does not have any workaround/solution to resolve the issue. For NextGen Pro users, please kindly log support tickets to the Imagely team so that they could prioritize the fix on this issue.

    I use the NextGen Gallery Pro for my portfolio showcase, to be exact, the Pro Masonry and Pro Mosaic gallery. Everything looked good until one of my friends gave feedback recently, “Why did your gallery not look sharp?” 

    I checked the gallery, and the original output images, no issue at all. I regenerated all the thumbnails into a larger dimension, purged the server and NextGen Gallery cache, nothing was changed. Soon, I discovered that the gallery only showed blurry thumbnails on my MacBook Pro and iPad Pro screens, but they were perfectly sharp on my 24″ Dell monitor.

    What Happened?

    I emailed the Imagely support team and described my issue and findings. From what I understand from the Imagely support team, NextGen Gallery, by default, generates a pre-defined dimension thumbnail when an image is uploaded and uses it for the gallery display. However, Pro Masonry and Pro Mosaic Gallery dynamically generate the thumbnails instead of using the default generated thumbnails. That explains why increasing the size of default thumbnails doesn’t solve the sharpness issue of the gallery.

    When it comes to a retina screen, NextGen Gallery doubles up the thumbnail size for a sharper display. I summarized that there are two requirements to make the NextGen Gallery (Pro Masonry and Pro Mosaic) works appropriately on the retina display:

    1. Enable the ‘Automatically resize images after upload’ and ‘Backup the original images?’ options. (More details in the following Solution section)
    2. The uploaded image has a dimension at least twice as large as the maximum width (for Pro Masonry) / row height (for Pro Mosaic). For example, in the Pro Masonry gallery, you uploaded an image with a dimension of 500 x 500px, and set the maximum width to 400px. NextGen Gallery will not upscale the thumbnail into 800 x 800px for retina display because it exceeds the original image dimension. 

    The Solution

    A hidden setting exists to display the gallery on the retina screen properly. 

    Go to ‘NextGen Gallery’ > ‘Other Options’ > ‘Image Options’.

    NextGen Gallery Pro Settings
    NextGen Gallery > Other Options

    Then set the two settings – ‘Automatically resize images after upload’ and ‘Backup the original images?’ to ‘Yes’.

    NextGen Gallery Retina Display Resize
    NextGen Gallery Retina Display Resize Settings

    Vola! The gallery displays sharply on all devices now!

    NextGen Gallery Pro Disabled Retina SuppportNextGen Gallery Pro Enabled Retina Support

    Out of curiosity, I want to find out whether we must enable two ‘irrelevant’ options for the ‘hidden’ retina display support. I tried the following:

    NextGen Gallery Pro Resize Only
    Enabled ‘Automatically resize images after upload’ option only
    NextGen Gallery Pro Backup Only
    Enabled ‘Backup the original images?’ option only

    Surprisingly, simply enabling the ‘Automatically resize images after upload’ option does the trick for retina display. I guess the recommended backup option is used as a rollback plan when the resizing goes wrong.

    One More Setting To Go

    I always optimize my output images’ size for web portfolio galleries. Therefore, I do not want to resize the images again in NextGen Gallery. It is troublesome to disable the ‘Automatically resize images after upload’ option when uploading images and re-enable it after setting up the gallery.

    Set the resize width and height to the long edge of your uploaded image to keep your original image dimension

    After playing around with the settings, I set the width and height to 1920px and the quality to 100%. Why 1920px? Because it is the long edge dimension of my web portfolio image. This dimension is sufficient for a Full HD display yet maintains a reasonably small size for general web display.

    NextGen Gallery Pro Resize Settings
    NextGen Gallery Resize Settings

    The resize function preserves the image’s original ratio and does not upscale the uploaded image. Therefore, you can safely set the width and height values to be the same as your image’s long edge.

    Final Thoughts

    Bugs exist in almost every software, including the WordPress plugin. Having bugs in the plugin is not the end of the day, but how fast you can get it back to the right shape should be an essential consideration when choosing a premium plugin.

    I have been using NextGen Gallery Pro since 2022 and have encountered numerous issues. The Imagely support team always replied swiftly (usually in less than 30 minutes) and nailed the solution every time. They set a high bar for a premium WordPress plugin’s service level in terms of responsiveness and speed in resolving issues.

    Feel free to try the NextGen Gallery Pro plugin on your WordPress site. Imagely guarantees a 14-day risk-free money-back if you don’t like it (Apparently, I love it!)

    Is This Post Helpful To You?

    I started this site with the intention of sharing my learning and working experience in photography. It takes significant time and cost to pick up and learn a new gear/technique, and then draft a post to share with everyone. The effort is worthwhile if it helps you and others save unnecessary time and money. I would be glad if you benefit from my content, and you may leave a one-off tip to keep this site running.

    Besides, you may support this site by making your purchase through the affiliated links below. The product price is the same when you use the affiliate link, but a qualified purchase earns me a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

  • Update Viltrox Lens Firmware On Mac

    Update Viltrox Lens Firmware On Mac

    Viltrox lens firmware update is effortless and straightforward. You only have to drag and drop the downloaded firmware into the connected lens. Done! Well, I’m so lucky to experience once that the drag and drop doesn’t work in the new Mac OS (Yea, Mac OS broke the firmware update process when it was first released).

    Although the latest Mac OS fixed the issue, I would still like to document the solution I found earlier as my reference and help anyone with similar lens firmware update issues with the Mac OS.

    Viltrox Lens Firmware Update

    1. Download The Lens Firmware

    Download the lens firmware from Viltrox’s official site.

    2. Connect The Lens To The Computer

    Some Viltrox lenses use a USB-C port, while some use a micro-USB port. It is located at the lens mount contact surface.

    Viltrox Lens Port

    Kindly pay attention to the port type so you won’t damage it accidentally. That’s the only port for you to update the lens firmware.

    3. Use Mac’s Terminal

    Type the command below in the Terminal.

    rsync <source file> <destination folder>

    rsync – a command for file transfer

    <source file> – drag and drop your downloaded firmware (a .DAT file) into the Terminal. It will auto-populate the path name, and it should look something like “/Users/YourName/Downloads/AF\ 85\ 1.8\ FE\ II\ V1.2.6/UPD8518IIFEV126.DAT”

    <destination folder> – the default volume name should be “/Volumes/Viltrox\ DFU/” You may drag and drop the Viltrox lens volume into the Terminal, and it will auto-populate the path name for you.

    Once you press ENTER in the Terminal, the rsync command will transfer the downloaded firmware into the lens, auto-eject the Viltrox volume, and auto-reconnect the Viltrox volume.

    4. Check Lens Firmware Version

    Go into Viltrox DFU volume, and open the DeviceInformation.txt.

    Viltrox Lens Firmware Update

    The Software Version indicates the current lens firmware version, and it should be in sync with the one you installed just now.

    Final Thoughts

    Viltrox has provided a simple firmware update process without installing any additional driver/application or buying an external lens update console. Another brilliant feature is that we could roll back the lens firmware version by dragging and dropping the older firmware .DAT file into the lens. I hope other 3rd party lens manufacturers can learn from Viltrox to provide a direct firmware update without any extra hardware and software.

  • Tamron Lens Utility On Apple M1 Mac

    Tamron Lens Utility On Apple M1 Mac

    A new firmware v2 is available a few days after receiving my new Tamron 20-40mm F2.8 in Dec 2022. I am aware that I have to install the Tamron Lens Utility on my M1 Max MacBook Pro to update the lens firmware. So I download the installer from Tamron’s official site and read the DO’s and DON’Ts like “Do not connect a lens to your computer via a USB hub.” blah blah, etc.

    I connect the USB cable to the lens and MacBook Pro, but nothing happens! The lens is neither detected by the Tamron Lens Utility nor the Mac Disk Utility. I swap a few USB cables, attach and detach the lens from the camera, and change the camera’s USB connection settings, but nothing works!

    Tamron Lens Utility Not Connected

    I found many Mac users having issues detecting their Tamron lens and updating the firmware, but I didn’t see any solution posted. I have no choice but to go to Tamron’s step-by-step guide, and yes!!! I found out that I missed one driver installation (yea, somehow, my eyes auto-censored it during the first installation).

    Therefore, I am writing a simple installation guide and important points here, and I hope it saves some hassles for those with issues with the Tamron Lens Utility and Mac. This guide is based on the latest Mac OS Ventura 13.3.1 (as of 14 APR 2023) on an M1 Max MacBook Pro.

    Tamron Lens Utility Installation

    1. Download Tamron Lens Utility

    Download the installer from Tamron’s official site.

    2. Install CP210xVCP Driver

    Yea, it is a COMPULSORY installation to make your Mac recognize the Tamron lenses.

    Tamron Lens Driver Installation

    There will be a security prompt at the last few steps of installation. Proceed to “Open System Settings” and allow the “CP210xVCPDriver.app”.

    Tamron Lens Utility Security Prompt

    If you missed or didn’t see this prompt, you may go to “System Settings” > “Privacy & Security” and scroll to the bottom, ensuring the “CP210xVCPDriver.app” is not pending any permission.

    Mac Permission Settings

    You should see a successfully installed page once the access is granted.

    Tamron Lens Utility Driver Installation

    3. Install Tamron Lens Utility

    You may skip this step if you installed it earlier. Drag the Icon into the Application folder as indicated.

    Tamron Lens Utility Installation

    The Tamron Lens Utility should detect the compatible lens and list the firmware info now.

    Tamron Lens Firmware

    Troubleshooting

    1. USB-C Data Cable

    If the Tamron Lens Utility still doesn’t recognize your lens after the driver is installed, kindly make sure you use a data cable instead of a charging-only cable.

    One way to determine if the cable is a data cable is to connect that cable between your Sony camera and computer. If the camera is not detected on your computer, the cable is likely for charging only. Try other USB-C cables until you get a data cable.

    Tips: Use the USB-C cable that comes along with your Sony camera.

    2. USB Hub/Converter

    One of the Tamron firmware update instructions is “Do not connect a lens to your computer via a USB hub.” It is frustrating as the newer generations’ MBP only come with USB-C (yea, I know they are ThunderBolt ports, but I just wanted to simplify the terms here), and Tamron does not provide a USB-C to USB-C data cable in the box. 

    Luckily, a simple USB-A to USB-C converter works fine to update the lens firmware on my Tamron 20-40mm F2.8. 

    USB-C Converter

    Besides, Tamron Lens Utility recognizes the Tamron lens through the CalDigit TB3 hub and HyperDrive USB-C hub. Unfortunately, I couldn’t roll back the lens firmware to test the firmware update through the hubs. 

    Final Thoughts

    The Tamron lens firmware update process was as simple as Sony native lenses when Tamron introduced the WOW compact 28-75mm F2.8 for Sony E-mount cameras. Just leave the lens on the camera body and connect the camera to the computer through a USB cable, and run the firmware update, done.

    The new lens firmware update process is tricky on Mac, as it requires two separate installations. I wonder if Tamron added the driver “CP210xVCPDriver.app” separately after Mac users’ feedback about the lens detection issue. I suggest Tamron merge the driver and lens utility apps to avoid confusion and simplify the installation process.

    Feel free to share your Tamron lens firmware update experience in the comments so we can help more people out there. Cheers!

  • Photography Tips: 5 Essentials to Get Bokeh

    Photography Tips: 5 Essentials to Get Bokeh

    Bokeh! A special optical effect that almost every photographer is pursuing. It is pronounced as “boh-kay”, which originated from Japanese that means something blurry. In the photography world, Bokeh is defined as how the lens renders the out-of-focus region. The Bokeh can be the background with a circular out-of-focus effect or smooth blur out-of-focus rendering background. There is some debating for the definition, but we treat both of them as Bokeh here.

    Circular Bokeh Effect
    Circular Bokeh Effect
    Bokeh
    Smooth Bokeh Rendering

    Bokeh is always one of the key difference between the interchangeable lens camera (ILC) and compact camera because it is challenging to get this smooth-rendered background from the compact camera. However, some people are using ILC but do not get the Bokeh effect as well. So we will have a look at what is essential to get the Bokeh in our shots.

    (more…)
  • Photography Tips: Deal With Camera Sensor Dust

    Photography Tips: Deal With Camera Sensor Dust

    I recently noticed some interesting dim spots that appear in my landscape shots, and they appear at the same place consistently, as shown below. I realized that I faced the common issue that annoys all the interchangeable-lens camera users: the sensor dust.

    Camera sensor dust is unavoidable for interchangeable lens cameras, especially when we have more than one lens to switch between, so it is good to know how to deal with the camera sensor dust. Therefore, I decided to compile a quick guide to share with you guys when cleaning my camera (Sony NEX-6). I hope it can help those who need it. The guide consists of two parts:

    Identify Steps and Cleaning Steps.

    (more…)
  • Photography Tips: 5 Reasons to Own a Zoom Lens

    Photography Tips: 5 Reasons to Own a Zoom Lens

    Zoom Lens
    Sony SEL2470Z

    Zoom lens usually consists of one focus ring and one zoom ring, and the focal length indicator as shown above. 

    We discussed the reasons to own a prime lens in the last post – 5 Reasons to Own a Prime Lens, but that does not mean we should always use prime lens. Today I’m going to tell you why we should get a zoom lens as well.

    1. Convenience

    Would you like to bring along your whole prime lens collection that covering 24 mm to 200mm (5 to 7 lenses) when traveling? Or do you prefer to travel in a lightweight and enjoy your trip? If that is the case, a lens like 24-105mm standard zoom or 18-200 mm full-range zoom is the ideal choice. Of course, I assumed you did not take the constant F2.8 cannon-size zoom into account.

    (more…)
  • Photography Tips: 5 Reasons to Own a Prime Lens

    Photography Tips: 5 Reasons to Own a Prime Lens

    The last photography tips discussed about 10 Factors to be Considered Before Buying a Lens, and basically, we know that there are two types of lenses, the prime lens, and the zoom lens.

    SEL55F18Z
    Sony SEL55F18Z

    Above is the Sony Zeiss SEL55F18Z prime lens, which provides one wide and smooth focus ring. You don’t get the second zoom ring here because it does not change the focal length!

    Many photography amateurs and professionals are in love with the prime lens or even insist on using it whenever possible. However, many people who just migrated to interchangeable-lens-camera (ILC) are intimidated by the prime lens. It is because we have to move closer or get away from our subject physically. And we will think, “it is for professional use, not for me.”

    So let’s get rid of that mindset. We will find out why so many people are in love in the prime lens in today’s post.

    1. Fast Prime

    We always hear people talk about “fast prime,” so what is it? The prime lens usually comes with a larger aperture like F1.8, F1.4, or even F1.2 that we never see on any typical zoom lens (usually we see the zoom lens comes with the max aperture at F2.8). A larger aperture allows more light to hit the image sensor in a shorter time, which means we can use a faster shutter speed to avoid any motion blur. It is handy when we are shooting in the low-light scene.

    (more…)
  • Photography Tips: 10 Consideration Before Buy a Lens

    Photography Tips: 10 Consideration Before Buy a Lens

    IIn the previous posts, we discussed 5 Considerations Before Buy a Camera5 Reasons to Own a P&S camera5 Reasons to Own a Mirrorless Camera, and 5 Reasons to Own a DSLR camera. If you buy a Point and Shoot (P&S) camera, then congrats, you can start your photography journey immediately. However, if you want to buy a mirrorless camera or DSLR, you must have at least one lens to pair with your camera before starting shooting.

    Sony A-Mount Lenses Image taken from: Sony Official Website
    Sony A-Mount Lenses Image taken from: Sony Official Website

    So which lens should you buy? How to choose a proper lens for yourself?

    1. Kit Lens

    Kit lens, a standard zoom lens that comes with purchasing your new camera at a very low price. It covers the standard zoom range from 28mm to 70 mm in 35mm equivalent for normal daily usage. If you are new to photography, a standard kit lens is enough for you to learn all the necessary skills for photography.

    (more…)